- bojesphob1 wrote:
- John, would you be up for doing a step by step tutorial on how you're doing this? I'm going to start painting a Stompa and would love to be able to do some of this stuff.....
Great work so far, though!
ETA: Just realized you explained what you had done.... Where do you get the oil paints? Michaels/Hobby Lobby?
Sure. My stompa is next.
I've actually been reading Fine Scale Modeler Magazine and got the FW Master class book. While the FWMC book is OK, a lot is left up to trial and error.
1) Base model. This should be done w/ an acrylic paint, preferably through an airbrush. You can use a spray enamel if you want.
2) brush on an acrylic gloss coat. This helps the oil paint move around the surface. Do not use an gloss enamel.
3) use a sponge (that come with metal figs) to sponge paint on chardin granite (or black). Less is more here and you need to use a straight up and down motion. Focus on edges and areas that you'd expect wear patterns to occur. If you "smudge" it looks terrible and very unrealistic quickly. This is really a "touch" technique and this is my second try. I'm sure I will continue to improve. You can then paint some Bolt gun metal on the very edge to give a worn and metal look coming through. (see pic #2 right above the eagle).
OILS/WASHES - Here is what I've learned through reading/experimenting. 1) Oil paint and turpenoid thinner washes will eat through a base coat of enamel paint (turpenoids are paint thinners/strippers). You either a) weather with acrylics over enamels or weather with oils/enamels over acyrlics.
In this case I used and enamel base so covering with the gloss coat prevented the oil wash from eating the base coat.
3) Oil wash. Black oil paint mixed with burnt Sienna oil paint w/ thinner. You can get more expensive "odorless" thinners which make it less smelly of a process.
The oil wash is put around the rivots, plating and then on some of the panels to bring them together.
The oil wash is workable for well over an hour and bringing thinner back in contact with it allows you to re work places you don't like. It moves well over the gloss coat and goes where you want Versus an acrylic was with water that will pool and give you a "ring" appearance. Various types of surface tension breakers will help with this issue with the acrylics (alcohol mostly or glycols -windex).
On this particular model I used an acrylic wash of rust brown before going to the oils. In the third picture you can see the rivots on the small turret. The rust color around those is with acrylics and water/acrylic binder versue the rust splotches on the large turret which are oils. I think you can see the dramatic difference.
The Oil paint rust is Burnt sienna that is thinned very slightly then blobbed on. After the blobbing the patch is touched beneath is with straight thinner. The thinner then picks of parts of the sienna and pull it down in a "streaked" fashion to get you a better weathered look. You can continue to work this in a fashion until you are happy.
