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 PART 2 BOARD BUILD

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LOXMYTHIC
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PostSubject: PART 2 BOARD BUILD   Tue Jun 22, 2010 2:41 pm

Part 2 of how I built my basement board



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Ghazkhull
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PostSubject: Re: PART 2 BOARD BUILD   Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:40 pm

Dude... Spend $15 and get the big-ass gallon jug of that wood glue you're using. Pour some out into a tupperware bowl and then mix in some water and a drop or two of hand soap (from those sink-side pump bottles). Thin it to the consistency of tomato soup.

Your glue will be easier to spread, will take longer to dry , and you will use far less glue. Plus, you don't have to squeeze a bottle for that long.


Nice tutorials!
Even though you should post the dude getting pulled over. Very Happy


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LOXMYTHIC
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PostSubject: Re: PART 2 BOARD BUILD   Wed Jun 30, 2010 1:26 pm

Thanks for the feedback. Rushed a little on the first one getting the stuff. Will look for the larger glue bottle. Usually the larger the container the less per ounce cost so it would make sense finacially. I thought about showing the guy pulled over but it was really uneventful and I didnt want to derail the vid. I really just explained that so you understood why I jerked the camera like I did. In hindsight I think sand would be a better material than kitty litter because Im still finding loose kitty litter on the board. Any other tips appreciated. Thank you.
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Ghazkhull
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PostSubject: Re: PART 2 BOARD BUILD   Fri Jul 02, 2010 3:05 am

LOXMYTHIC wrote:
Thanks for the feedback.

You bet!


LOXMYTHIC wrote:
Usually the larger the container the less per ounce cost so it would make sense finacially.

Absolutely correct. Also, I want to point out that I have the same bottle as you used in the video. I keep it around for that handy applicator tip to use on my smaller terrain elements like buildings, etc. I re-fill it from time to time from the gallon jug.


LOXMYTHIC wrote:
...I think sand would be a better material than kitty litter because Im still finding loose kitty litter on the board. Any other tips appreciated. Thank you.

Well, sand vs. kitty litter really boils down to preference and what it is you want out of the board. Are you going for form or function? Both? If you're going for something sandy, like a desert, playground sand is better. If you want something more 'hostile', kitty litter is your culprit. For a more rubble-ized landscape, a mix of the two is perfect. Also, with use, they will BOTH succumb to the wear and tear of normal gaming use. The trick is to minimize this. I do it like this:

After I have made sure that my glue has finished drying, I remove the excess ground cover (kitty litter, in your case) from my table. I will try to wait several hours for this, just to be sure. When I am certain that the table is dried, I mix up some Elmer's wood glue just like I mentioned in the post above; wood glue + water + a couple drops of liquid soap to the consistency of milk this time.

In the model train hobby, this water mixture is referred to as "wet water".
The liquid soap helps to break down the viscosity of the glue and allow it to more easily flow between the gravel/kitty litter/other basing material.

Paint this mixture over everything that you have just based in kitty litter (or sand, or whatever). You want this coat to be applied judiciously to your table. I put it on pretty heavily. Like, the entire table is that off-white, tan-ish color of thinned down wood glue. Even when covering green grass turf... lol

I do this for ANY board I make, no matter the game, the type of terrain, or the material used for ground cover. Sand, kitty litter, grass, baking soda snow, talus, sawdust, whatever. These tables are darn near indestructible. No lie. I have some desert terrain in my basement that I made about a decade ago. It spent the last 10 years being beat up and fought over at Acme Games (R.I.P.). The foam that I made the hills out of has some chips and gouges, a removable roof from a building is on its last leg, but NONE of the sand flock has come loose. None of it. I've actually seen people KICK one of the hills into the storage area under the tables!!!
(they got an earful Very Happy)


***EDIT***
To anyone that may be reading this:
I just wanted to stress the importance of making sure your original glue coat is 100% dry before applying the thinned seal coat of glue over top. If you rush this (like I have SOOOO many times), you will find yourself simply pulling the basing material right up off of the table with your brush. Then it clumps and is a pain in the ass to get back in place. You will have to spend a fair amount of time and energy fixing the patchy areas... Just let it fully dry in the first place. lol



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LOXMYTHIC
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PostSubject: Re: PART 2 BOARD BUILD   Fri Jul 02, 2010 7:42 am

Thanks Ghaz- excellent tips. I usually put a layer of glue over my terrain pieces but never thought of putting it over the board after applying the base material. This would give it that protective coating it needs now.
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